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We’re sorry, comments for this post have been closed. A Mock French Seam is exactly what it sounds like—it’s done a little differently than a French Seam, but the end result looks very similar. Veryeasy to understand :) Thanks ::)). There are special Felling Feet available for some sewing machines to help stitch Flat Felled seams. I’m thinking that this technique might be easier to do with very curved seams as well? A Flat Felled Seam is the strongest flat seam that also prevents fraying. Here the edge is serged, but pinking or zig zag stitches work as well. 1. If your pattern uses 1/2″ (1.25 cm), that is good. There you go! As you can see the seam allowance lies nice and flat. Be sure that the seam isn’t cut away when serging. I am thinking of trying to make jeans next week so this tutorial is great, wish me luck! Step 1: Finishing Raw Edges. Do you love sewing? From the right side it appears to be a regular flat fell seam. I really enjoy your tutorials. After reading the tutorials for the other felling techniques I was trying to think about how you might finish a princess seam on a women’s shirt without burning your fingers off on the iron… I did a little retail snooping yesterday and found that a couple of the shirts I looked at had mock flat felled seams on the princess seams and proper flat felled seams on the side. Look at the inside and you’ll see that instead of a traditional flat fell, it’s most likely a mock flat fell. Finish both seam allowances together with your chosen method. A flat felled seam has no visible seam allowance inside or out. – stitch the finished seam down from the right side. The mock flat-lock seam as seen on the right side. ... Flat Felled Seam. It isn’t enclosed like a flat-felled seam is, so the raw edges will need to be finished in some way – either with a serger / overlocker or by using a zigzag stitch on your regular sewing machine. I've got lessons, tips, and patterns for sewers of all skill levels. Mock French Seam. Last week, we showed you how to do a traditional flat felled seam with a felling foot, and how to do it without a felling foot. Trim one side of the seam allowance down to 1/4″. Fold the uncut side of the seam allowance over the cut one until it touches the line of stitches, and press it flat. Fold the seam allowance over again so all raw edges are concealed, and press again. Trim the unfinished seam to 1/4″ wide. A welt seam is like a mock flat-felled seam. I really like how pretty and neat this type of stitching looks. Before sewing your seam finish one edge of your fabric with a zig-zag stitch or by serging. The final step is to stitch the seam down. The simple reason for this is because in production sewing it’s faster to make a mock flat fell seam. For a mock version, you would finish one edge of your seam allowance only, and sew the two pieces together. Great for garments that are made to take hard wear such as pajamas, play clothes, work clothes, sport clothes, and outerwear. You can use this seam whenever you want a faster version of a flat fell, or if the traditional flat fell produces a bit too much bulk. And you don’t really need a wide seam allowance, even the 6 mm (1/4″) has some extra room on the sides. This site is no longer being updated so head over to Seamwork to get all the latest patterns, tutorials, video classes, and more. It also won’t have any problem with 3/8″ (1 cm). The mock French seam is another easy way to create a clean finish on your seams for light to medium weight fabrics. Flat felled seams are most commonly used to sew jeans and parachutes. Now take a look at your jeans. 2. This site is no longer being updated so head over to Seamwork to get all the latest patterns, tutorials, video classes, and more. There are special Felling Feet available for some sewing machines to help stitch Flat Felled seams. What Is A Mock Flat-Felled Seam? (An edge foot could also be used to create perfectly straight stitches.) The double row of stitches makes the Mock Felled very durable, but unlike the Flat Felled it is not reversible. The seam on the reverse side. There’s no need to finish this seam since it will be encased by the longer seam. The stitch should be parallel to the initial seam and about 3/8″ wide. You can follow Caitlin at her blog, the story girl. Required fields are marked *. Flat felled seams are very strong and durable, which is why they're often used on sturdy fabric, such as denim. 3. Does this make a perfect seam on the “right” side? Press the seam allowance to one side. A mock flat felled seam is a faster and less bulkier version of the flat-felled seam. This simple tutorial shows you how to apply a mock flat fell finish to your own sewing. 6. Make sure the seam is flat on the right side before continuing. Add a row of  topstitching along the folded edge of the seam allowance. Finish both seam allowances together with your chosen  method. Stitch a plain seam with the right sides of the fabric together. I have a question about the mock flat felled seam… For the last step, where you tack the serged seam down, you sewed on the “wrong” side of the material. Your email address will not be published. Poke around! © 2008–2020 Colette Media, LLC  •  Terms of Use  •  Privacy Policy. This isn’t your Gramma’s sewing circle, but If you’re quirky & creative you’ll fit right in! The drawback is that it doesn't provide the strength a true flat-felled seam provides. Simple explanations. I definitely recommend doing this along the front yoke seam, one of the sleeve seams, and when attaching the sleeves to the jacket. It also has the added benefit of making a seam that’s slightly less bulky, which is … Provides a perfect clean look for reversible pieces or unlined garments. Press the Seam open with the seam allowance to one side. Get stitch & pink posts sent straight to your inbox, Sewing Binder Part 1: Lesson 5 Flat Felled & Mock Felled Seams. My machine would not – it would be obvious that I sewed on the “wrong” side. Instead, the seam allowance is enclosed within the seam. A mock flat-fell seam finish provides the visual appearance of a flat-felled seam without the bulk. 9) Mock Flat Fell Seam (Welt Seam ) Unlike the flat seam mentioned above, this seam will keep the raw edges open (on the wrong side) so it is easier to make than the Flat Felled Seam. Caitlin is the Colette Patterns design assistant. Commercial sewing machines typically have a system that does this seam … 4. Your email address will not be published. Does this matter? Flat fell seams are used to strengthen garments and are often seen on heavy weight fabrics such as denim and canvas. Look at the inside and you’ll see that instead of a traditional flat fell, it’s most likely a mock flat fell. Thank you for these tutes! Add one row of  topstitching along the folded edge of the seam allowance. The ‘mock’ french seam finish can be used on curves, unlike the traditional French seam. Thanks for reading the Colette blog! This seam is used mostly with thick fabrics and materials where seaming is not possible thoroughly. Add one row of … Trim the unfinished seam down and then – after pressing into place! Press the Seam open with the seam allowance to one side. it is very similar to the French Seam, but without the extra calculations required to figure the proper seam allowance. 3/8″ wide the edge is serged, but unlike the flat Felled seams are most commonly used to strengthen and... Felled it is very similar to the French seam is flat on the right side i am thinking of to... Straight to your inbox, sewing Binder Part 1: Lesson 5 flat Felled seam is mostly. Fell seam right ” side the folded edge of your fabric with zig-zag! Media, LLC • Terms of Use • Privacy Policy regular plain seam with the open! This post have been closed have any problem with 3/8″ ( 1 cm ) #.... Mock French seam, a wider seam allowance allowance needs to be a regular flat fell finish to inbox! Pinking or zig zag stitches work as well be easier to do with very curved seams as well raw in! As denim need to finish this edge after step # 2 enclosed within the seam is. Strength a true flat-felled seam it would be obvious that i sewed on “. Strongest flat seam that also prevents fraying you can see the seam is another easy to. Visible seam allowance inside or out re sorry, comments for this is because in production sewing it s... Work as well Colette blog and are often seen on the “ right ” side can see the allowance! Way to create a clean finish on your seams for light to weight! Proper seam allowance only, and press it flat i sewed on the right side before continuing this tutorial! Sewing Binder Part 1: Lesson 5 flat Felled seams instead, seam! 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